Mission Lamp, Prairie Style: Part One

Mission Lamp, Prairie Style: Part One

Bent Arm, bow back Stickley style spindle side, Morris chair in QWSO

To discuss making Mission Lamps, Prairie Style, I need to start with a discussion on Stickley Style furniture.  A digression no doubt but, it sets the foundation for the later discussion. I have  crafted many Mission, Stickley style projects:  Cal king bed, many tables, matching bedside tables, 3 Morris chairs, 2 rocking chairs  all spindle side, Stickley style, coat trees, sconces  and  4 mission/prairie style lamps. Attached are some photo details of the Mission/Stickley projects. There are many more, but the material documents the interest in Stickley style furniture is the focus.  Whether the reference term  is Arts and Crafts, Mission or Stickley, the style is the intent.  I will use Stickley and Mission interchangeably. Purists will differ I am sure.

    The following materials are offered to offer my insights into crafting the Mission Lamp from Rick White's discussion in an article..  His article assisted in defining the Complex Compound Miter (CCM) angles and a base that all appeared to have the vision I was after.  If you are at all interested in the Mission style lamp, his article is a solid start. The article originates from a copyrighted article in WoodWorker's Journal, dated 2007. Here is the link: https://www.rockler.com/prairie-style-lamp-plan. Rockler sells the article as "plans."  Mr. White has skill well beyond the discussion in the article.  At best, Rockler represents Mr. White's article as plans. If you expect Rockler to deliver plans you will be disappointed.  What you get is the WoodWorker's Journal article.  Rockler has oversold the article for something that it really is not.  Still, giving Mr. White credit, his article is solid.  Rockler's representation of "plans" is a promise not delivered. Mr. White certainly could write a single project book on Mission Style lamps with details on the project.  The article is an introduction to an opportunity to learn. And for that, I appreciate Mr. White's article, not Rockler's representation of "plans."  

     What follows is my experience of making/crafting Mission Style lamps with direction  from the White article.  My review and insights may or may not be of assistance.  Your skill set, tools and experiences will define your project.  As with any article, some material will be informative and useful, the rest guidance. I sorted through many "plans" for shades and the White article had a shade look that I was after. The base style fit  my vision. I could have gone any number of directions on the base. 

Stickley Style Rockers, spindle side, bow back

Walnut, Stickley Style, flat arm, flat back, spindle Morris Chair

Stickley style Cal King, matching night stands, spindle style, QSWO.  Lamp on tables, Maple, matching on both tables 

     The purpose for the pictures of prior projects is to arguably provide some credibility to my discussion on the Mission Style Lamps.  I have built roughly 15 Stickley style projects, some shown here.  Adding to that experience includes all kinds of other furniture projects, circular forms, art frames, crown molding, cabinets and some light remodeling projects, including flooring and interior trim.  Crown molding  and interior trim provided the bulk of the compound miter work. I had some experience on CCMs.

Next: Part Two,  Where to Start?

Wooden Fish Weathervanes: Part Eleven

Wooden Fish Weathervanes: Part Eleven
Part Eleven:  Cost of materials and tools
     So what does it cost to make one of these?  I can provide a rough estimate.  The cost of power for tools, heat, cost of tools, time hunting material down on the Internet, going to the big box, actual labor -- time in actual construction is too difficult to define.  What I can say is that materials are  insignificant compared to the cost of tools. EMT comes in 10' lengths for $6.20.  You may not need more than 12"?  Point is that there will be material left-over if you have uses for the left-over material.  Consumables like varnish, epoxy, muriatic acid, sheet metal will have some left-over.  Still, it is a cost whether you use it or not. Here are the rough cost of materials.  Again, your experience will differ depending on all the variables in your decisions:

1.  Wood, 4X4 cedar to redwood, $10-$25.  Assume $15 for an 8' piece.  That will make one, so consider $15. That leaves enough for a 2' base. Or, smaller shapes, 24" will give you two glue-ups of 24". Re purposed wood removes the initial cost outlay, but there is cost in reclaiming the material from its location and the additional cost of more machine time to mill  into glue-up shape
2. Epoxy, @$7 per project
3. Varnish, @$3
4. Sand Paper, @$5
5. EMT, @3', @$4
6. Rebar, $4
7. Bearing, $1
8. Nickel to act as washer in the end of the EMT, .05 cents
9. Brushes/Rollers for epoxy and varnish @$4
10. Corrugated sheet metal @ $8.  
11. Muriatic Acid, hydrogen peroxide, vinegar and salt.  Baking soda for clean up @$15
12. Gloves and safety equipment, @$4
13. Roughly, $70, JUST in materials.  But, that assumes tools, power, saw blades, sanders, saws and all the other pieces of equipment are not part of the price.  Wear and tear, fixing and the original cost of equipment is not included in this.  Labor is not included and the time outlays are ridiculous -- Probably 10-15 hours for epoxy and varnish alone.   There is an economy of scale here.  If you are making three, the time is more but not as much as doing three separate projects.  Glue-up, layout, clean-up, bandsaw, sanding, drilling, epoxy, varnish, fins and muriatic acid/rust wash follow the rule that it takes about the same amount of time to make three as one.
14. And, moving around all the equipment in the garage, turning it into a shop, and returning it to a garage.  That is not so much fun.
15. If I were to run across one of these at a craft fair and saw $120, I would  have said that is high.  Now that I have made some, that is barely covering costs. 

Here is a list of the power tools used. Hand tools like clamps, hammers, nail sets, tape measures, levels, pencils... NOT included:

1. Cutoff saw for the rough length of wood. 
2.  Table saw for ripping or using the dado blade for the wooden base used to epoxy/varnish and a bench top installation
3.  planer for milling one face  of the material for glue up
4. Band saw for the rough shape cut out
5. Sanding center, 12" disc, 6 inch belt, rough sanding
6. Finish sanding, ROS with 60, 80, and  120 grit paper, lots of that
7. Standing drill press, forstner bits
8. cutting tools for EMT, files, hack saw, Sawzall for cutting rebar
9. Aviation tin snips,  Gotta have em.  
10. Power tin snips. Sure make cutting sheet metal easier
11. Reciprocating multi-tool with new blade for cutting slots in the fish for fins
12. Grinder for sharpening    

Wooden Fish Weathervanes: Part Ten

Wooden Fish Weathervanes
Part Ten:  Maintenance
     Yearly varnish, Scuff up the surface, Scotch-brite or 220 sand paper, dust, wet wash, let dry and varnish outside on a dry, hot day,  Second coat the next day or earlier depending how dry and hot. Check for any loose fins.  Lube the bearing.  Check the rebar for level.  If you are in the back yard and the rebar seems loose, check it out. If it is spinning well, no wobble, no worries. That is it.  
Part Eleven:  Cost of materials and tools

Wooden Fish Weathervanes: Part Nine

Wooden Fish Weathervanes
Part Nine: Siting, installation
     Where to put your Wooden Fish Weathervane?  This is entirely subjective. Whatever I offer, is once again from my perspective. Your tastes will and should differ depending on your yard, CCRs, neighbors, chance of theft, wind, windows, outdoor seating/furniture, landscaping and lighting.  My purpose was to have something kinetic, moves with the wind.  Strong breezes assure there will be movement of the fish with small to no fins.  I opted for larger tail fins to catch the light breezes and move the fish.  There are a lot more light and variable winds than strong winds.  If the fish is not moving, how interesting is a static piece of wood on a metal peg?  The selection of wood makes for an attractive display no doubt.  The clean wooden accents assure that it looks good immobile.  BUT, moving is the goal for me.
     So, siting in a location that will not be protected from the wind is important. The backyard installations that I have made are fenced. Some with 6 foot wooden fence. Others with iron fencing with 6 inch on center and essentially wide open without interference from wind movement.  Be assured that wind in wooden fence enclosures is going to have swirling and variable wind.  If you are after a true representation of  prevailing winds, the weathervane needs to be well above fence lines and structures like  houses.   That is generally impractical for all but homes without CCR issues and an awaiting cupola.  So, the backyard appears to be the answer.
     You can site your fish away from your field of view.  But, I question why you would have gone through this process to do that?  The question comes to mind:  If the fish moves in the wind, and no one sees it, did it really move? So from my perspective, you want to install it where you can see it, where there is wind (variable or stable ) at a safe distance so that it does not impair foot traffic from mowing or other landscaping and it does not swing into some child and cut them.  The exposed sheet metal edges are SHARP.  Kids and pets can be curious and there should be child proof and pet proof spaces for  your yard art. Remember, the art will spin depending on wind movement over the entire diameter of the fish.  So, if the length is 48 inches, the pivot point is at 20"-28", you need to assure that plants are out of the way. If not, the fish will run into and stop its rotation on the plant (or structure) until some wind frees it from its static trap.
     Table top installation using the 4X4 base can work in the right location.  Consider all of the safety issues and perhaps, there is an installation that will work.  In the winter, a table/counter installation on a base may work just fine as there are no people around to interact with the fish movement.

     Installing Rebar:  Pounding the rebar into the ground requires a plumb and level installation in an area that is free from subterranean improvements. Drip systems, low-voltage lighting systems, PVC irrigation come to mind. If you are worrying about a water supply, domestic gas, electricity sewer or phone you are waaay past the installation of a piece of yard art. 12", 18" and at MOST 24" below surface soil level is all that is needed.  Concrete if you must, but that is more than I have ever used.  Here is an example of moderate winds, estimated around 20, gusting 35+ and variable. Note the rebar does deflect some in the soft ground. The closest fish are around 40" in length, just the wooden fish.  Also, they have the LARGE tail fin that transfers the pressure on the tail into movement.  A fence enclosed backyard will have variable winds.  No doubt concrete would limit the rebar movement in the ground.  It would also make the installation semi-permanent.  So, I opt for some deflection in the soil and mobile should the need arise.

      I have used different rebar for the installation over time.  For the 3/4" EMT, the best installation rebar is 5/8" rebar. I buy it in 10' lengths, cut two four foot lengths  and have a remaining two foot length for a table top installation in one of the bases that I have used for epoxy/varnish.  I grind down one end to a rough point.  That may or may not be needed. And it would eliminate one step, some noise and using a grinder.  But, what are grinders for? If you got it, use it.

     The end that will be out of the ground, I grind/file to a relatively smooth shape, remove the sharp edges that may be there to assure the bearing has a smooth surface to rotate on.  I use a three foot level to check for plumb and level installation.  I have never been able to get the rebar to the point of plumb/level without pulling or pounding at the base to correct the imbalance.  Getting close as you can must be accepted.
     The rebar is in the ground, your fish is close by and you want to put the fish on the rebar.  Now is the time to take the 1/2" bearing, liberally grease it, hold it in place while you slide the fish/EMT over it.

Now stand back and push it around to assure the rebar is solid in the ground, the fish swings free and easy without touching, it is safe to all and waiting the next breeze.

Next:  Part Ten: Maintenance

Wooden Fish Weathervanes: Part Eight

Wooden Fish Weathervanes
 Part Eight:  Muriatic acid bath and rusting
     This is subjective.  You may or may not be a fan of the rust patina created by the two-step process of muriatic acid and rust inducing wash. You may like the shiny galvy appearance of sheet metal or want to paint the fins.  You may have selected a completely different material, plastic, wood, aluminium…  I am offering this as an aesthetic answer to my tastes.  Bypass this entirely if you have a different vision.  
     Should you elect to approach this or any other part of this project, your safety is your responsibility.  Again, my purpose here is to expose you to procedures that are entirely up to you.  Using ACID, requires compliance with all the care and caution that ACID requires.  I am not offering advice on how to accomplish the procedure, but exposing you to the process. Proceed with all the cautionary warnings and procedures recommended by the acid manufacturer and on top of that, use common sense and be careful. After all, you are using acid to chemically etch galvanized coating off of sheet metal with all the inherent fumes and waste. The process is pretty quick.  Just assure the fins are all well treated. GOOGLE the formula for the rust wash. I GOOGLED and came up with 16 oz, of hydrogen peroxide, 2 oz. of white vinegar and 1/2 teaspoon of salt.  Spray on after dissolving all the salt and almost instantly, you have rust.  If not well treated, with muriatic acid or rust wash, there will be a splotchy effect, outlines of the fins on the other fins and you will be re-submerging the pieces in acid or spraying with rust wash. Here are the extremes of shiny, completely rusted and partially rusted:

The  top two fins show two stages of rust.  The upper depicts rust after about 30 days  of exposure to the elements after the rust wash.  The next, immediately below shows the rust after about 18 months.  Your results will vary depending on your climate.  The lower is a muriatic bath for a shorter time, all the galvy was not etched off and the rust wash was added.  This is about 10 months in the elements. I like the rust appearance.  So, use the look that you want. NOTE:  The flattened corrugated ribs are horizontal to the ground.  That  provides some stability against fluttering in the wind.  The vertical installation of the tail fin would work just fine.  However, it will deflect in the wind.  So some of the energy used to move the fish in the wind is absorbed by the fin deflecting.  Again, a personal preference. 

Next,  Part Nine: Siting, installation

Wooden Fish Weathervanes: Part Seven

Wooden Fish Weathervanes: Fish Story

Next:  Part Seven, Cutting the Slots, Mortises
     The cardboard or ridged paper templates have been outlined on the sheet metal and you have snipped and cut the sheet metal out.  Each fin for each application can be unique and specific for your application.  I like more than just a few fins. Dorsal and tail fin are the bare minimum for me.  I have had as many as 6 and as few as two.  
     Cutting the slots/mortises for the fins is now at hand.  The first effort was waaay over engineered.

 Again, I was sure the wind was going to destroy the finished weathervane after the first windstorm. I used a hammer and mortising chisel for the first dorsal fin installation The wooden  tail was cut with the bandsaw and the tail installed with dowel rod inserts. Not anymore.  A reciprocating multi-tool, Harbor Freight, thin blade cut about 2-2.5" deep and that is that. The fins, not the tail fin though, are the shape desired.  The shape will have a tab/tenon of sheet metal that is about the width of the multi-tool blade shown below and a depth/length or around three inches.  Once the slot is cut into the shape, the sheet metal tab is a friction fit into the slot.  Trim the tab on the fin  to a snug fit in the shape.  The blade provides a cut that is deep enough for the tab/tenon to fit in the slot with a fairly good fit.  Epoxy fills in and it cures to a really solid fit. Varnish always over exposed epoxy.

 Locating the fins on the shape with the cardboard template assists on the location of the mortise/slot.  I use the cardboard, rough measure, visually locate the fin and mark with a Sharpie.  Then the mortise/slot is cut.  The tail fin needs a full saw cut with a band saw or other saw.  I am sure there are all kinds of ways to attach the tail and fins.  I have  outlined what I have done. Your shop, tools, material and skills may define a different process.
     Each fin will need a custom cut and finish.  The contour of the fish, depth of the mortise/slot and shape of fin will need some tin snipping adjustment to get a close fit of the fin to the fish.  
     Consider muriatic acid and rusting the fins, all of them in advance of the custom application of the fin. That way you do not need to have a custom fit, before the muriatic bath and rust cycle. The acid bath and rust wash kind of takes away identity.  I have used a finish nail set to number the fins -- one hole left, two holes dorsal, three clockwise pectoral and so on.  A side benefit of the pounding holes in the fins is a penetration point for the epoxy.  If you are building just one, the need for uniformity is not as great,  Making 3-4 at a time, identity of the fins and uniformity matters.

Next: Part Eight:  Muriatic acid bath and rusting

Wooden Fish Weathervanes: Part Six

Wooden Fish Weathervanes:  Fish Story
Part Six the shape and installation of the fins.
     You need to consider the shape and size of the fins for your fish now if you have not already done so.  Material selections for the fins must be done at this time.  My selection is metal so I am going forward with that selection.  Connecting the fin to the fish was a concern with the first fish.  Just as I was sure I needed a 4X4 post in concrete to support the fish, I was sure the fins would come ripping out of the fish. The first effort reflected the over design. Makes you wonder how the Wright Brothers ever got something into the air?

In this photo you can see the dowels that I used to pin the tail to and through the wood.  The bandsaw was used to cut the slot, plumb, flush and level for the metal tail.  The fit has plenty of friction and the epoxy holds the tail very well without the necessity of the dowels. More on friction fit later.

Here you can se the dorsal fin that is was epoxied into the fish with a mortise ( in the fish ) and tenon the metal  fin into a small block of wood and epoxied into the mortise.  I used sanding dust, mixed with epoxy to form a thicker filler and applied that into the mortise. WAAAY more than needed.  Now all the fins are a  friction fit with epoxy and I am sure none of the fins will fall out. If they do, it will be after years and a simple repair with epoxy or a screw.  If anything, I anticipate that the fins may rust out before they pull out of the wood.  But, that is after years.  Anything that is outside needs maintenance.  Epoxy, wood and sheet metal are not exempt from maintenance.

     The shape of the fins needs to match the shape of the design and at the tail, match the shape reveal of the tail.

Consider a uniform, cookie cutter templat for the fins.  You can be as eccentric or uniform as you want.  In reality, the pectoral fins can be pretty much the same and have  a great visual aesthetic.  The dorsal fin may have more personality to it or be the same as the others, except for the tail fin.

 The picture below, lower fish,  has all the same fin shapes for all four fins.  Once you have fins cut out, it is difficult to assure that the fin for the dorsal is not the pectoral or vice a versa.  Each mortise for the fin and contour of the fish will require a custom fit.  Again, it is your call, but for simplicity and ease of installation in the shape, the "one size fits all" motto works for me.

   I have found that cardboard templates are the best way to work with fins.  Use the wooden tail as a shape for the tenon/metal tongue that will fit into the bandsaw slit/groove in the tail.  Take the tail shape and transfer that to larger paper/cardboard and define the shape you want for the tail.  The metal tenon/tongue will friction fit into the tail just fine. If you use a thick saw blade, the slot/mortise may need to have epoxy and the dowels to assure the fit is tight, weatherproof and will last.  Any epoxy placed will get a final coat of varnish to protect the epoxy.

     Once you have the shape of the fins, dorsal, tail, and pectoral fins shaped, the cardboard template needs to be transferred to the galvy sheet  metal, and cut out.  Aviation tin snips and a cheap Harbor Freight electric tin snip make quick work of the flattened metal.

  Once shaped, it is time to consider locating the fins on the fish and cutting the thin mortises for the sheet metal  fin, tenon.

This is what you are after:

Next:  Part Seven, Cutting the slots, mortises