Wooden Fish Weathervanes: Part Seven

Wooden Fish Weathervanes: Fish Story

Next:  Part Seven, Cutting the Slots, Mortises
     The cardboard or ridged paper templates have been outlined on the sheet metal and you have snipped and cut the sheet metal out.  Each fin for each application can be unique and specific for your application.  I like more than just a few fins. Dorsal and tail fin are the bare minimum for me.  I have had as many as 6 and as few as two.  
     Cutting the slots/mortises for the fins is now at hand.  The first effort was waaay over engineered.

 Again, I was sure the wind was going to destroy the finished weathervane after the first windstorm. I used a hammer and mortising chisel for the first dorsal fin installation The wooden  tail was cut with the bandsaw and the tail installed with dowel rod inserts. Not anymore.  A reciprocating multi-tool, Harbor Freight, thin blade cut about 2-2.5" deep and that is that. The fins, not the tail fin though, are the shape desired.  The shape will have a tab/tenon of sheet metal that is about the width of the multi-tool blade shown below and a depth/length or around three inches.  Once the slot is cut into the shape, the sheet metal tab is a friction fit into the slot.  Trim the tab on the fin  to a snug fit in the shape.  The blade provides a cut that is deep enough for the tab/tenon to fit in the slot with a fairly good fit.  Epoxy fills in and it cures to a really solid fit. Varnish always over exposed epoxy.

 Locating the fins on the shape with the cardboard template assists on the location of the mortise/slot.  I use the cardboard, rough measure, visually locate the fin and mark with a Sharpie.  Then the mortise/slot is cut.  The tail fin needs a full saw cut with a band saw or other saw.  I am sure there are all kinds of ways to attach the tail and fins.  I have  outlined what I have done. Your shop, tools, material and skills may define a different process.
     Each fin will need a custom cut and finish.  The contour of the fish, depth of the mortise/slot and shape of fin will need some tin snipping adjustment to get a close fit of the fin to the fish.  
     Consider muriatic acid and rusting the fins, all of them in advance of the custom application of the fin. That way you do not need to have a custom fit, before the muriatic bath and rust cycle. The acid bath and rust wash kind of takes away identity.  I have used a finish nail set to number the fins -- one hole left, two holes dorsal, three clockwise pectoral and so on.  A side benefit of the pounding holes in the fins is a penetration point for the epoxy.  If you are building just one, the need for uniformity is not as great,  Making 3-4 at a time, identity of the fins and uniformity matters.

Next: Part Eight:  Muriatic acid bath and rusting