Wooden Fish Weathervanes: Part Eight

Wooden Fish Weathervanes
 Part Eight:  Muriatic acid bath and rusting
     This is subjective.  You may or may not be a fan of the rust patina created by the two-step process of muriatic acid and rust inducing wash. You may like the shiny galvy appearance of sheet metal or want to paint the fins.  You may have selected a completely different material, plastic, wood, aluminium…  I am offering this as an aesthetic answer to my tastes.  Bypass this entirely if you have a different vision.  
     Should you elect to approach this or any other part of this project, your safety is your responsibility.  Again, my purpose here is to expose you to procedures that are entirely up to you.  Using ACID, requires compliance with all the care and caution that ACID requires.  I am not offering advice on how to accomplish the procedure, but exposing you to the process. Proceed with all the cautionary warnings and procedures recommended by the acid manufacturer and on top of that, use common sense and be careful. After all, you are using acid to chemically etch galvanized coating off of sheet metal with all the inherent fumes and waste. The process is pretty quick.  Just assure the fins are all well treated. GOOGLE the formula for the rust wash. I GOOGLED and came up with 16 oz, of hydrogen peroxide, 2 oz. of white vinegar and 1/2 teaspoon of salt.  Spray on after dissolving all the salt and almost instantly, you have rust.  If not well treated, with muriatic acid or rust wash, there will be a splotchy effect, outlines of the fins on the other fins and you will be re-submerging the pieces in acid or spraying with rust wash. Here are the extremes of shiny, completely rusted and partially rusted:

The  top two fins show two stages of rust.  The upper depicts rust after about 30 days  of exposure to the elements after the rust wash.  The next, immediately below shows the rust after about 18 months.  Your results will vary depending on your climate.  The lower is a muriatic bath for a shorter time, all the galvy was not etched off and the rust wash was added.  This is about 10 months in the elements. I like the rust appearance.  So, use the look that you want. NOTE:  The flattened corrugated ribs are horizontal to the ground.  That  provides some stability against fluttering in the wind.  The vertical installation of the tail fin would work just fine.  However, it will deflect in the wind.  So some of the energy used to move the fish in the wind is absorbed by the fin deflecting.  Again, a personal preference. 

Next,  Part Nine: Siting, installation

Wooden Fish Weathervanes: Part Seven

Wooden Fish Weathervanes: Fish Story

Next:  Part Seven, Cutting the Slots, Mortises
     The cardboard or ridged paper templates have been outlined on the sheet metal and you have snipped and cut the sheet metal out.  Each fin for each application can be unique and specific for your application.  I like more than just a few fins. Dorsal and tail fin are the bare minimum for me.  I have had as many as 6 and as few as two.  
     Cutting the slots/mortises for the fins is now at hand.  The first effort was waaay over engineered.

 Again, I was sure the wind was going to destroy the finished weathervane after the first windstorm. I used a hammer and mortising chisel for the first dorsal fin installation The wooden  tail was cut with the bandsaw and the tail installed with dowel rod inserts. Not anymore.  A reciprocating multi-tool, Harbor Freight, thin blade cut about 2-2.5" deep and that is that. The fins, not the tail fin though, are the shape desired.  The shape will have a tab/tenon of sheet metal that is about the width of the multi-tool blade shown below and a depth/length or around three inches.  Once the slot is cut into the shape, the sheet metal tab is a friction fit into the slot.  Trim the tab on the fin  to a snug fit in the shape.  The blade provides a cut that is deep enough for the tab/tenon to fit in the slot with a fairly good fit.  Epoxy fills in and it cures to a really solid fit. Varnish always over exposed epoxy.

 Locating the fins on the shape with the cardboard template assists on the location of the mortise/slot.  I use the cardboard, rough measure, visually locate the fin and mark with a Sharpie.  Then the mortise/slot is cut.  The tail fin needs a full saw cut with a band saw or other saw.  I am sure there are all kinds of ways to attach the tail and fins.  I have  outlined what I have done. Your shop, tools, material and skills may define a different process.
     Each fin will need a custom cut and finish.  The contour of the fish, depth of the mortise/slot and shape of fin will need some tin snipping adjustment to get a close fit of the fin to the fish.  
     Consider muriatic acid and rusting the fins, all of them in advance of the custom application of the fin. That way you do not need to have a custom fit, before the muriatic bath and rust cycle. The acid bath and rust wash kind of takes away identity.  I have used a finish nail set to number the fins -- one hole left, two holes dorsal, three clockwise pectoral and so on.  A side benefit of the pounding holes in the fins is a penetration point for the epoxy.  If you are building just one, the need for uniformity is not as great,  Making 3-4 at a time, identity of the fins and uniformity matters.

Next: Part Eight:  Muriatic acid bath and rusting

Wooden Fish Weathervanes: Part Six

Wooden Fish Weathervanes:  Fish Story
Part Six the shape and installation of the fins.
     You need to consider the shape and size of the fins for your fish now if you have not already done so.  Material selections for the fins must be done at this time.  My selection is metal so I am going forward with that selection.  Connecting the fin to the fish was a concern with the first fish.  Just as I was sure I needed a 4X4 post in concrete to support the fish, I was sure the fins would come ripping out of the fish. The first effort reflected the over design. Makes you wonder how the Wright Brothers ever got something into the air?

In this photo you can see the dowels that I used to pin the tail to and through the wood.  The bandsaw was used to cut the slot, plumb, flush and level for the metal tail.  The fit has plenty of friction and the epoxy holds the tail very well without the necessity of the dowels. More on friction fit later.

Here you can se the dorsal fin that is was epoxied into the fish with a mortise ( in the fish ) and tenon the metal  fin into a small block of wood and epoxied into the mortise.  I used sanding dust, mixed with epoxy to form a thicker filler and applied that into the mortise. WAAAY more than needed.  Now all the fins are a  friction fit with epoxy and I am sure none of the fins will fall out. If they do, it will be after years and a simple repair with epoxy or a screw.  If anything, I anticipate that the fins may rust out before they pull out of the wood.  But, that is after years.  Anything that is outside needs maintenance.  Epoxy, wood and sheet metal are not exempt from maintenance.

     The shape of the fins needs to match the shape of the design and at the tail, match the shape reveal of the tail.

Consider a uniform, cookie cutter templat for the fins.  You can be as eccentric or uniform as you want.  In reality, the pectoral fins can be pretty much the same and have  a great visual aesthetic.  The dorsal fin may have more personality to it or be the same as the others, except for the tail fin.

 The picture below, lower fish,  has all the same fin shapes for all four fins.  Once you have fins cut out, it is difficult to assure that the fin for the dorsal is not the pectoral or vice a versa.  Each mortise for the fin and contour of the fish will require a custom fit.  Again, it is your call, but for simplicity and ease of installation in the shape, the "one size fits all" motto works for me.

   I have found that cardboard templates are the best way to work with fins.  Use the wooden tail as a shape for the tenon/metal tongue that will fit into the bandsaw slit/groove in the tail.  Take the tail shape and transfer that to larger paper/cardboard and define the shape you want for the tail.  The metal tenon/tongue will friction fit into the tail just fine. If you use a thick saw blade, the slot/mortise may need to have epoxy and the dowels to assure the fit is tight, weatherproof and will last.  Any epoxy placed will get a final coat of varnish to protect the epoxy.

     Once you have the shape of the fins, dorsal, tail, and pectoral fins shaped, the cardboard template needs to be transferred to the galvy sheet  metal, and cut out.  Aviation tin snips and a cheap Harbor Freight electric tin snip make quick work of the flattened metal.

  Once shaped, it is time to consider locating the fins on the fish and cutting the thin mortises for the sheet metal  fin, tenon.

This is what you are after:

Next:  Part Seven, Cutting the slots, mortises

Wooden Weathervanes: Part Five

Wooden Fish Weathervanes:  Fish Story
Part Five:  Adding Fins
     Just the wooden shape alone does not provide enough surface area to move the fish in the wind.  Adding fins give the needed leverage to point the fish into the wind and react to small changes in the breeze.  If you just want the fish as a static display with little movement, small or no fins will get you what you want. I am sure some aeronautical engineer could explain the dynamics of pressure on the tail fin, weight and drag to define the perfect shape and size to move the fish into the wind.  For me, I have found that larger tail fins that extend above and below the fish appear to turn the fish into the wind and move with light winds.

     Sheet Metal:  Recall that you have been driving over the galvanized sheet in the garage for days now.  Your tires and weight of the car have flattened the corrugations to a manageable flat surface.  It is not too soon to start considering  your use of muriatic acid to strip the galvy protection from the metal allowing it to rust and have a nice rustic appearance.  I guess you could apply whatever paint on the fish and fin for whatever look you want.  I like the wood tones of red cedar and rewood combined with rust patina on the corrugated metal for my application.
     If you are considering muriatic acid to strip the galvy, go to the big box, sheetrock or concrete sections and find a big tub for mixing texture mud/concrete and buy some muriatic acid -- paint section.  You will need that big area to lay the fins while the acid removes the galvy.  More later. For now, consider the shiny, paint or rustic finish:

The sheet metal shown is BEFORE muriatic asid and the rusting process.  The visible flattening of the corrugations is from driving over the metal.  Now the material is ready to have the desired shape outlined on it.

The The above show  three different tail fin selections.  NOTE:  This is important.  The corrugation ribs add some rigidity to the metal.  Orienting the fin with the ribs horizontal to the ground assures the tail does not flex in the wind.  If you want the tail to flap in the wind, then consider an articulated shape, hinge in the tail area to give some additional movement.  Hinging could be a simple pin hinge allowing movement.  That adds another dynamic to the shape, materials and wear.  So, I am opting for simple.  Finally, consider the lower/pectoral fins.  They add some finish and scale to the fish. The above show one, two and three pectoral fins. The dorsal fin is a must IMHO. 

This is an attempt at a Koi representation.  Four pectoral fins, a BIG dorsal fin and a curved long tail.  The tail has lost some of the rigidity from the shape.  I have seen it deflect in light winds, nothing serious.  The other fins probably assist in heading the fish into the wind. Muriatic acid and a rust etch to start the rusting. The glue line is visible in the middle of the shape. Wester red cedar, knots and all. The fish, wood alone is probably 44".

Next: Part Six the shape and installation of the fins.

Wooden Fish Weathervanes: Part Four

Wooden Fish Weathervanes
Part Four: Epoxy and Varnish
     Epoxy as a wood coating has volumes of writing about applications and pitfalls.  Getting a reasonable temperature to work in is the challenge.  Heat of the summer and the coating dries really fast.  Cold, below 55 degrees, and curing can take days. 
     First Epoxy the EMT:  The EMT is the first time to get epoxy.  The tubing is hollow so it needs to have a washer for the insertion Sanding between coats is nice and avoiding drips is the goal. With all that said, I just want to get 3-4 coats of epoxy down, as few sags as possible and sand once-twice to smooth out before the varnish coat.  My wooden kayaks are entirely different. I carefully sanded and assured all was as sag free as possible.  The fish are an outdoor installation that will see lots of conditions.  So, a few sags does not offend my sense of perfection.
     I crafted simple stands to assist in the epoxy and varnish stages.  A pine 4X4, dado blade on the table saw, cut a depth around 2" and the width of a 2X4 and I have a base. The EMT is inserted into the underside of the shape.  The tube is hollow so a washer needs to seal the EMT from the epoxy.  I have found that a .05 cent coin is the perfect size for the washer. After lots of time in the big box hardware section and lots of leftover washers I found the solution. I was paying .13 cents for an imperfect fit that I taped to end of the EMT to insert in the shape.  That worked. BUT, the nickel is the perfect friction fit. Tap in the nickel into the EMT, rough up the OD of the EMT with a file/60 grit sandpaper, prep some epoxy,  coat the hole with epoxy and insert the EMT.  If you have extra epoxy from the batch, coat the shape with the what is left. 

     From the material that I have read pennies are considered lucky and added to the weathervane.  The number may represent the people in your family, dates of birth on the coins, number of cars? Or maybe just a weight to balance the weathervane.  So, the nickel is not out there too far. When installing, I used a rat-tail file to ream/reduce the ridge/burr created by the tube cutter.  Once that is done, the installation is tight.  The nickel at the top of the tube will rest against the top ( or bottom depending on your view of the world ) of the forstner hole.  That and it will have epoxy sealing around it.  In the final installation, a single bearing will be inserted in the EMT tube, on top of the rebar. The result will be the bearing inside the EMT, between the nickel and the rebar.  That gives the bearing a tight pivot point that is solid -- metal nickel, bearing and rebar.  It works well and should last indefinitely. Add occasional lube, grease and the system is maintenance free.    

 Try and have the EMT level and plumb.  When the epoxy sets, you are ready for the first coat of epoxy. Here are the re-purposed redwood shapes, EMT mounted on bases for easier epoxy and varnish application, indoors.  The base for each allows for the shape to pivot in the wood base/EMT connection. No fins yet.  Just the drilled hole for the EMT in the underside.  The slots for the fins will be added after the epoxy and varnish are dry, cured and complete. Epoxy and varnish drip. I have paper rolled and cut below to catch the drips and assure domestic semi-tranquility.

     Coat the Shape in Epoxy:  The bases work for a solid support while coating with epoxy and varnish. In the past I suspended the shapes from the chandelier over the dining table for days while I was coating.  Not the best move for household harmony.  BUT, the temperature was controlled and it worked. I moved to larger shapes and the chandelier was going to have too much weight and household harmony too much at risk so I needed a solution.

The photo shows the 4X4 mounted on the 2X4s, drilled for the EMT to be inserted.  I will probably drill a matching hole for the rebar to allow a bench/table top installation. Not ideal, but for some purposes just fine.

 

By now you have the idea that this is a bit of a project. It is.  With the epoxy and varnish steps complete -- and that can take days with a 24 cure/dry cycle for epoxy/varnish/ sanding and coating -- you can begin to consider the Finishing.  The application of the fins, shape, size and shape of the fins.

Part Five:  Adding Fins

Wooden Fish Weathervanes: Part Three

Wooden Weathervanes: Fish Story
Part Three, Shaping the shape
     Rough Shape:  There is a fish under the wood, hiding, waiting to be lured out and set free. But, the fish will  not emerge without some coaxing and more time. There are any number of shaping resources: Band saw for rough shape of the fish form; Hand planes for shaping work.  Still you will need to secure the shape to use a plane or draw knife; An angle grinder with a shaping wheel/disc work great for removing lots of material and leaving a form for sanding  to shape. My preferred process for removing material quickly and leaving a shape to finish.  Finish Sanding to smooth the form works well.  Consider 60-120 for progressing along.  No need for 220 sanding on outdoor rustic art.  Cedar and redwood are too soft for real fine finishes in my opinion.  If I were to make something out of oak or walnut I might consider the use of 220 grit finish.  So, in preparation for shaping and final sanding, consider a couple of time-saving options. At some point in time the fish will be mounted and installed somewhere.  To get there will be epoxy, varnish and some type of fin material.

     Type of fin material:  If you are considering a wooden fin, something I have not considered, you need to consider the weight, shape and weatherproofing of such an option.  The fins need to be thin and do the job of catching a breeze to set the entire process in motion.  Thin wood will be exposed to the elements and that means expansion and contraction.  Perhaps a thin sheet with epoxy/fiberglass will protect the fins.  That is waaay more labor and time than I want to invest in this.  SO, CORRUGATED GALVANIZED SHEET METAL is my go to solution. Why?  Lots of reasons.  More on that later.  But at this time selecting the material is needed to start some  time saving steps.  I purchase the material at the big box in a 40" by 92" shape.  I have flattened the material before and it takes lots of pounding and it is loud.  So, I purchase the material early on and lay it flat in the garage and drive over it.  Then over the days I rotate and flip the material to get a flattened surface without needing to pound it to death with a deadblow mallet. It saves time on the marking of the design on the metal, cutting the metal and installing the metal. You can leave the galvy shine on, or,  as I do, soak in muriatic acid and strip the galvy away, and wash down with peroxide (two cups) vinegar 4 tablespoons and salt to start the rust patina happening. More on that later.
     Setting a Pivot point:  I have a standing drill press and flat-bottom cutting forstner bits.  Before too much material is sanded away, and leaving a flat top/dorsal part of the shape, I  start to decide where to place the 3/4" EMT/conduit (from now on just EMT).  The EMT is going to be placed into a corresponding hole, @3 inches deep in the underside of the shape.  Then it is epoxied in to provide a point for the installation rebar to rest with a ball bearing, inside at the top. More later.  The hole needs to be small enough for a tight fit of the EMT and leave room for the epoxy.  The hole MUST be plumb and level.  So to get to that needed point, a watchful eye on the clamping of the shape to the drill press table is required.  Having it square, level and plumb is important otherwise your fish will have a list, left, right, forward or back.  I like the fish to appear to be level to the ground and the rebar mounting spire level and plumb.

 Detail of the EMT installed in the forstner bit hole, plumb and level and epoxied in.  The EMT could be quite long as some I have and this appears to be a compromise in length.  The long and short EMT applications all spin free and smooth.  I have tried different methods of installing the EMT:  After the varnish and before final sanding.  Before final sanding works best as the flat dorsal part of the shape aids in the location of the hole and a nice flush/level installation.

Wooden Fish Weathervanes: Part Two

Wooden Weathervanes: Fish Story

Part Two: Gluing, designing and the start of the shape
4X4 and 2X6 define the shape you end up with.  Both appear to work well.  Depending on your design concept, both will result in a visually proportionate result assuming you are after a traditional "fish shape." The barracuda/torpedo/trout shape fits what I am after atheistically. Longer, nose to tail appear to create more pleasing lines.  In the wind, the longer profile has a lot of movement, which is what I was after.

Three 2X6, Round design on the sides compared to the 4X4 glue up.  Depending on your design

Two, 4X4s can provide a flatter side. Design, cutting and shaping help define the desired shape.

GLUE-UP  

     If you are reading this, I am assuming that you have access to wood shop basics.  This is not a "how to" blog on shop safety or Norm Abram's, New Yankee Workshop primer on selecting and cutting wood. As noted, I like western red cedar and redwood.  Pine may give you what you want. Whatever you choose, it needs to be DRY. I use Titebond glue, just  because it is sold in gallon jugs at the big box. Epoxy is not needed for the glue up.

     Getting a rough idea of the shape you want from the material you have usually starts from a drawing. Again, I am after a wooden shape, something of size, @36-42 inches, before adding the metal tail fin.  I am sure you could use a 2X4 and end up with something aesthetic to scale.  It would just be small, @12".  If it cannot be seen and enjoyed, why do it?  Depending on your shop, you may want to shape first and then glue up.  I have a 14" band saw so the glue-up first and cut later works great for me.  I could probably just as easy cut to shape on the band saw and then glue up. If you do not have a band saw, a coping saw or electric jig saw will probably work well.  I have never approached the cutting from anything other than a band saw so there are probably lots of solutions that I have not considered.  Or just use this an excuse to buy a band saw.  Here is a drawing for a 4X4 glue up and rough shape.  

    The rough shape ends up in a rough sketch on the top, sides and bottom of the fish. After cutting on the band saw, the shape is squareish (ish adds to any needed explanation) and needs lots of shaping to get to the "fish shape."
    Next: Part Three,  Shaping the shape.