Mission Style Prairie Lamp Part Six:

Mission Style Prairie Lamp
Part Six: The Column
     Getting to the Second of the three assembly steps, is the Column.  Depending on the material that you select the project will differ. QWSO allows for the assembly to have the QWSO figuring well displayed. Cherry, white oak walnut and other material will have grain faces that should be sonsidered.  But, QWSO provides the face and grain that defines Stickley projects, at least to me.  Stickley devised the quadrilinear cpnstruction process to best desply the QWSO grain patterns. The interlocking assmeblies assure that QWSO is highlighted.  Using a veneer process is easier to accomplish unless you have a molding shaper for the interlocking miter to achieve the true quadrilinear posts.
     Mr. White elects to go with a veneer face on two sides.  On prior Stickley Morris chair and rockers, I  used the veneer as opposed to the use of the quadralinear. Gluing up QWSO and having the glue line displayed on two of the column/post faces is really not an option.  So, veneer it is for just about any column that has QWSO and certainly to cover the glue line. 

Mission Style Prairie Lamp: Part Five

Mission Style Prairie Lamp: Part Five

Part Five: Starting the Build, the Base.

     After completing four of the lamps using the Mike White article, I had some thoughts on the build and review of the article contents.  The detail on sourcing the lamp hardware and mica are well detailed in the prior entries.  More on some of that as part of the assembly detail  later. For now, starting to size and cut wood is the next step.  No doubt the project falls into three areas:  Base, column and shade.  The lamp hardware assembly and finishing arguably could be steps four and five.  But for now, the project will be addressed on the base, column and shade.
   The Base: What a great detail White has included for the base molding.  Unless you have a dedicated molding machine, you cannot achieve the detail of the molding in the White article.  Even with a molding machine spinning some big and expensive blade, you still will need to have molding miters to align the material to the base.  If you are using cherry or walnut, the alignment of the grain and thus the need for the molding may not be needed.  If you are using QSWO, then orienting the grain to best represent the QSWO face requires the molding.

     For me, a built up base of  QSWO or WO still leaves the edge grain exposed. Built up would imply flat material, with a stacked or built up base.  Compare the photo of the base to the left. All QSWO faces showing.  Not unlike the quadralinear posts of Stickley Morris chairs to show off the QSWO.  Adding in corbels to the base and affixed to the column still produces end grain. Just about any finish will result in the end grain being noticeably darker and just not as attractive. Perhaps personal preference here.  BUT, QSWO should show off the grain when possible. And, really, the use of a router on each face of the base with an ogee or chamfer is OK. But, for me, the molding shows off the QSWO and has a great appearance.
     Yes the article does call for corbels at the base of the column.  They are detail and not from  the base up 2/3rds of the column.  So the base from the article was  a strong reason to select the White construction guidance.  I would have never thought of the molding and the article detailed the cuts needed.  I am terrible on angles and the molding detail at first did not make sense to me. After four cuts to the molding, I was kind of getting the concept.  The built up base for the molding to connect to finally made sense.  I used MDF for the molding to mount over.  The concept in the White article was  to  face all the planes with QSWO.  As shown, the base molding miters well and the 1/8" veneer cap/top fits well.  Some finnicky adjustments and sanding resolved the issues I had with the process.

     The base, assembled. Four faces of the base molding all have QSWO aspect showing.  A veneer cap to the base in QWSO aspect and even under the enlarged photo detail, the joints hold up to inspection. Here are some closing thoughts on the base construction:

1. Cut more base material than you think you will need.  There are four angle cuts for the molding.  The cuts continue to nibble away at the 3/4" stock.  One of the cuts has only 9/32nds against the table and a vertical face against the fence.  That is not a lot of support. So, during all that cutting, no matter how careful you are, there is going to be a wobble against the blade leaving a mark or burn to complicate the assembly.  So, cutting more provides some room for revision.  I hate to say room for error.
2. Think Crown molding and the cuts make more sense.   The finished molding will have a horizontal and vertical face on the miter saw fence.  So does crown molding.  Fitting crown molding to the vertical wall and horizontal ceiling is what you will do.
3. The base material is two lifts, each 3/4", one at a 45 angle and the other vertical.  The back facing planes of the molding will match the faces of the MDF base.
4. Dry fit everything.  Get it correct. Trim to fit.
5. The glue up of the molding is interesting as everything wants to move.  The glue up is not like a picture frame as the base is there.   Remember, the veneer top goes over the molding so there is some room for fine tuning.
6. Clean the glue off the material. For some reason, this project had more post glue-up marks than I can remember.  Probably because you are trying to get the CCMs just right.  Or, I used Titebond II, waterproof glue and clean up with water was inhibited.  I am leaning to the use of TBII.  My bad.  

Mission Style Prairie Lamp

Part Six: The Column

    

Mission Style Prairie Lamp: Part Four

Mission Style Prairie Lamp
Part Four: Sourcing Sources

Sourcing sources:  QSWO and white oak are pretty common and available for a price even in the mountain west.  I am sure that the prices per board foot are MUCH better where white oak thrives. Not so much in the sage brush forests of the Great Basin. So, for a price, you can get what you want locally.  Or, travel and save some. 

            Online resource for Mica is pretty easy with today’s immediate gratification on-line shopping. Selecting the thickness and tint of the Mica is a decision. I went to Ashville Mica for my material.  Here is the link. https://www.ashevillemica.com/category/lampshade-mica.  Asheville offers a sampler package for @$20.  Buy that to get a feel for the material and tone. Different thicknesses,.015 and .030 are options.   The color options range from silver, stained/speckled, amber, clear amber, clear dark amber, green  in two different thicknesses, .015 and .030.    I liked the clear amber in .030.  Consider the thicker material to provide a sturdy installation.  Here is the  sampler package link. https://www.ashevillemica.com/category/lampshade-mica/decorative-lampshade-mica-sample-kit.  

 I went for the thinner material on the first lampshade.  Thicker for the final three.  I will go with thicker for any future installation. That may be a personal preference. Thicker does offer a sturdier panel in the finished shade.  Not that the wooden frame is weak, rather, the protection from something hitting the mica and damaging it.

            Lamp Parts:  If you want to go with the harp-style hardware, that is probably available at the big box.  Again, personal preference here, but the harp style is not a stable/sturdy  installation for an heirloom quality lamp.  If you elect to go with art glass, the harp style is just not strong enough.  Again, personal preference. One or two bulbs are also a consideration.  You can find a two bulb  lamp style for the harp.   But, you really have to hunt that down at a specialty shop on-line or boutique lamp repair shop locally and they will  probably order it on-line.

            Here are some suppliers:  https://www.bplampsupply.com/; https://www.antiquelampsupply.com/; Two light, brass, nickel finish, S-Type cluster body with pull chain sockets: https://www.bplampsupply.com/product/4615_nickel-2-light-s-type-cluster-body-with-pull-chain-sockets; https://www.antiquelampsupply.com/nickel-2-light-s-type-cluster-body-with-pull-chain-sockets.html;

            Finial, Corbel, Top Cap, Finish Nut:  Regardless of the harp or

Lamp Pipe, threaded, lamp nipples, reducers,spacers, reducers, nuts and other hardware needs:

Mission Style Prairie Lamp

Part Five: Starting the Build

Mission Lamp, Prairie Style: Part Three:

Mission Lamp, Prairie Style: Part Three

Part Three: Planning the Planning:

            As with any plan, there will be guidance that fits your skills and shop tools.  If you do not have a table saw, miter saw and patience, a CCM is probably beyond what you should attempt. Hand tools can only take you so far. I had the equipment and after all the wood projects I had completed, this one was a challenge for the simple fact that angle cuts were not a regular and routine skill that I exercised. And, on top of that, I was probably not so good at angles.  With little more than the White article, I set out on this project.

            After completing this for the first time, I assure you and myself that the learning curve has been conquered and the lack of knowledge has been replaced with experience and understanding the cuts necessary to make the next CCM project more user friendly.
First Considerations:  This Blog is a bow to the White Article for its insights and introduction.  At the same time  I provide my comments and opinions.  Once you have built a few I am sure you will have your own thoughts. 

                      Initial Thoughts.  I had built lamps before. Southwestern look and feel with a Kokopelli image at the front, store bought lamp shade.  So, I had some experience with lamp hardware.  The White article called for  stained glass to fit the inside of the shade. I knew that was heavy as, well, sheet art glass, times four sides.  White recommended the harp style hardware that you have in your home lamps.   My planning based on prior experience  and using lamps pointed me to threaded pipe dedicated to lamp use.  I have used harps before on southwestern style lamps. No doubt that they work well and will be used into the future.  Still, if you are going to the effort to research, design and create a Mission lamp, prairie style, consider using the best material for the project.  The lamp hardware should be of the same quality as the rest of the project.

     With that said,  here are some facts and photos to assist you in your decisions on lamp hardware.  The harp style gets its name from  its shape.

Harp

Harp coupler

  I  like the use of two light fixtures. Pull chain and harp hardware does not offer those features in easily sourced locations.  There are specialty lighting vendors on line that do have a two light cluster, pull chain harp configuration.  As shown, the harp has two spring connections that are covered with collars.

 The result is a connection that is subject to inherent movement, wiggle and, well, sloppy connection.  Adding to the sloppy connection is the connection of the shade to the harp.  As shown, it offers a connection with a nut to the harp.  BUT, note that the harp shade bracket has a friction fit pivot  point.

Harp shade bracket

Low weight paper shade

That feature works well for the use of low weight shades that can be pivoted to allow light  to spill from the shade on your work/reading.

The size of the Mission/Prairie shade  you are building is not designed for tilting. AND, if you plan on using art glass, the harp will NOT support the shade and

the slop of the fittings will make for a flimsy final product.

Threaded pipe coupler, nuts and lock 

  Here is single fact to consider as defining the use of  threaded pipe and all the related fittings and not the harp.  In one word, HEIGHT.  The harp  is a fixed height. From the  spring coupler  bracket to the shade bracket, there is just one height.  With threaded pipe,you can adjust the height from the base to the light cluster and at the top of the light cluster, to the underside of the shade.

Mission Lamp, Prairie style, amber mica, .030 gauge, two light  bracket, threaded pipe

A single bulb, electric light socket sitting on top of the base is not very stable or strong and certainly not stable enough for a large wooden shade structure and art glass.   I knew I would be using different hardware and you should to.  The White specified harp is under engineered for the White shade in my opinion. It will work I am sure. There are more stable solutions that merit investing in some time and effort.  

Next: Part Four: Sourcing Sources.

Mission Lamp, Prairie Style: Part Two

Mission Lamp, Prairie Style: Part Two
 Where to Start?
         The start of every project is some type of plan that probably comes from a vision originating from something that you have seen.  I  seriously doubt that I have ever had an original thought.  So, the start of my planning was a search on lamps and specifically mission/arts and crafts/prairie style.  I have a pretty extensive library of “how-to” plan books stretching from before the internet was a viable source of research and plans.  Some of the how-to books were quite good and some were pretty worthless.  The good have served as an inspiration for better work and the others as a seldom visited space occupying a shelf. 

This is an example of the books that offered "Easy To Make" lamps and shades that were really just a compilation of material from perhaps Popular Science or circa 1920s Mission books. In various older publications, I have the same material.  So, this book is part of the seldom visited spaces on the book shelf. It is useful for a reference, just not what I was after.  The lamp shade plans were  what I was after. BUT, the plans were really for a sheet metal style to be cut out of heavy gauge paper.  Not at all what I was after.  I ordered two of the books at the same time and both had the same content, just different titles.  I was after the wood, CCM plan and detail. The search for  lamp plans  was narrowed to wood, quarter sawn white oak and the compound complex miter (CCM) shade that would fit atop just about any base.  I spent waaaay more time than I care to admit searching for the lamp that I was after.

            There were plans for lamps to be sure.  But, most, if not all of them were not the style that I thought I was after.  There was a feel that I wanted and it would fit into what I was pretty sure was Mission/Prairie style lamp.  At the heart of the project was the shade.  I did  not know that the shade I was after was going to be a complex compound miter until I figured out that it was. TO be sure I knew that it would have angles, the details of the angles and cuts were unknown.  I found some original plans from the Popular Science OLD,  publications that were in an old plan book.  Not real helpful and the plans were for cardboard shades and then sheet metal. Not what I was after.

            I found some other plans that did not match what I was after, not at all, but there was a wooden lamp shade. Something out of the very Prairie style plans that would be at  home at Taliesen West or Waterfall, Frank Lloyd Wright. I had southwest style ingrained in me from an early age in Northern New Mexico.  Greene and Greene, lifting cloud style was prominent in the Mission/Arts and Crafts style.  The Prairie style stained glass shades had the shape that I was after, but the stained glass work was another project that I was not too interested in accomplishing.  That would be another day/project.

     This photo is from a free, really, free plan set from Minwax. Minwaxplan, https://www.minwax.com/wood-projects/accessories/diy-lamp-plans.   This is very Frank Lloyd Wright from my view.  I liked it but not what I was after. The cantilevered, Fallingwater/Wright base is stunning, just not what I was after. I wanted the full base that was more Mission Style with the full on base. The shade is right on, except for the art glass.  So, I kept looking.  I like the green hue of the art glass and with the correct installation, I would go with glass.  Again, personal preference.  I had the amber glow of mica from some vision in my past.  The search now had a shape for the shade and a base shape to be determined. I anticipated that the base would need to match the shade to assure there was a proportionate feel. A HUGE shade with a small base would just look awkward.

            So the style was becoming apparent although not defined.  I knew I would know it once I saw it.  After lots of on-line hit and miss, and exhausting my personal sources for direction and plans, I came across two books that promised “Mission Style Lamp Plans.”  I bought two of the books and they were just recitations of the material that I already had – not useful at all.  But, in the search I did come across some plans that were the look that I was after.  I needed plans because I am really not so good on angles, complex angles and certainly not complex compound miter angles.  The Minwax plans offered a concept for using half-lap joints on the frame that was different than the tongue and groove shown in other plans.  The small pieces of the shade sides, top and bottom stretchers just did not appear to offer enough surface area to complete the cuts.  And, using the half-lap allowed for the joint to be hidden in the underside of the frame. Here is an excerpt from the MinWax plan.

            Rockler offered WoodWorker's Journal, a downloadable plan that I had found for “free” on another site.  I paid the $7.95  download to assure the credit went to the author, Rick White. So, I highly recommend you order the downloadable article.  As stated above, Rockler promises plans and you get an article from WoodWorker's Journal. As with any article, some material will be informative and useful, the rest guidance. With Mr. White’s article, I needed the angles and take-offs as well as guidance to assist in the process of creating my first complex compound miter/CCM assembly.
     Lots of images abound on the internet for Mission Style lamps.  Some are really nice and others junk.  The nice work is usually by small artisan shops that offer an image with a promise to build to the spec provided.  Some offered the shape of the shade with the wrong base. I was after a proportionate base with a shade and the White article provided that.

     The photo on the left was from a Mark DeCou creation based on the information I have.  This image has Craftsman, Stickley and Greene and Greene lines.  Western Craftsman Stickley style? Here is the link to Mr. DeCou's website:  http://www.decoustudio.com/lighting.html     A basic GOOGLE based search for lamps found this image.   The lamp is stunning, intricate and detailed. Note the appliques on the mica shade, and shadow box light, three way electric switch. Now I was getting close. The White article image on the right  is from the look that I settled on. The shade shape and base were right on point.  The glass was going to be replaced with mica.  
Mission Lamp, Prairie Style

Next: Part Three: Planning the Planning:

Mission Lamp, Prairie Style: Part One

Mission Lamp, Prairie Style: Part One

Bent Arm, bow back Stickley style spindle side, Morris chair in QWSO

To discuss making Mission Lamps, Prairie Style, I need to start with a discussion on Stickley Style furniture.  A digression no doubt but, it sets the foundation for the later discussion. I have  crafted many Mission, Stickley style projects:  Cal king bed, many tables, matching bedside tables, 3 Morris chairs, 2 rocking chairs  all spindle side, Stickley style, coat trees, sconces  and  4 mission/prairie style lamps. Attached are some photo details of the Mission/Stickley projects. There are many more, but the material documents the interest in Stickley style furniture is the focus.  Whether the reference term  is Arts and Crafts, Mission or Stickley, the style is the intent.  I will use Stickley and Mission interchangeably. Purists will differ I am sure.

    The following materials are offered to offer my insights into crafting the Mission Lamp from Rick White's discussion in an article..  His article assisted in defining the Complex Compound Miter (CCM) angles and a base that all appeared to have the vision I was after.  If you are at all interested in the Mission style lamp, his article is a solid start. The article originates from a copyrighted article in WoodWorker's Journal, dated 2007. Here is the link: https://www.rockler.com/prairie-style-lamp-plan. Rockler sells the article as "plans."  Mr. White has skill well beyond the discussion in the article.  At best, Rockler represents Mr. White's article as plans. If you expect Rockler to deliver plans you will be disappointed.  What you get is the WoodWorker's Journal article.  Rockler has oversold the article for something that it really is not.  Still, giving Mr. White credit, his article is solid.  Rockler's representation of "plans" is a promise not delivered. Mr. White certainly could write a single project book on Mission Style lamps with details on the project.  The article is an introduction to an opportunity to learn. And for that, I appreciate Mr. White's article, not Rockler's representation of "plans."  

     What follows is my experience of making/crafting Mission Style lamps with direction  from the White article.  My review and insights may or may not be of assistance.  Your skill set, tools and experiences will define your project.  As with any article, some material will be informative and useful, the rest guidance. I sorted through many "plans" for shades and the White article had a shade look that I was after. The base style fit  my vision. I could have gone any number of directions on the base. 

Stickley Style Rockers, spindle side, bow back

Walnut, Stickley Style, flat arm, flat back, spindle Morris Chair

Stickley style Cal King, matching night stands, spindle style, QSWO.  Lamp on tables, Maple, matching on both tables 

     The purpose for the pictures of prior projects is to arguably provide some credibility to my discussion on the Mission Style Lamps.  I have built roughly 15 Stickley style projects, some shown here.  Adding to that experience includes all kinds of other furniture projects, circular forms, art frames, crown molding, cabinets and some light remodeling projects, including flooring and interior trim.  Crown molding  and interior trim provided the bulk of the compound miter work. I had some experience on CCMs.

Next: Part Two,  Where to Start?

Wooden Fish Weathervanes: Part Eleven

Wooden Fish Weathervanes: Part Eleven
Part Eleven:  Cost of materials and tools
     So what does it cost to make one of these?  I can provide a rough estimate.  The cost of power for tools, heat, cost of tools, time hunting material down on the Internet, going to the big box, actual labor -- time in actual construction is too difficult to define.  What I can say is that materials are  insignificant compared to the cost of tools. EMT comes in 10' lengths for $6.20.  You may not need more than 12"?  Point is that there will be material left-over if you have uses for the left-over material.  Consumables like varnish, epoxy, muriatic acid, sheet metal will have some left-over.  Still, it is a cost whether you use it or not. Here are the rough cost of materials.  Again, your experience will differ depending on all the variables in your decisions:

1.  Wood, 4X4 cedar to redwood, $10-$25.  Assume $15 for an 8' piece.  That will make one, so consider $15. That leaves enough for a 2' base. Or, smaller shapes, 24" will give you two glue-ups of 24". Re purposed wood removes the initial cost outlay, but there is cost in reclaiming the material from its location and the additional cost of more machine time to mill  into glue-up shape
2. Epoxy, @$7 per project
3. Varnish, @$3
4. Sand Paper, @$5
5. EMT, @3', @$4
6. Rebar, $4
7. Bearing, $1
8. Nickel to act as washer in the end of the EMT, .05 cents
9. Brushes/Rollers for epoxy and varnish @$4
10. Corrugated sheet metal @ $8.  
11. Muriatic Acid, hydrogen peroxide, vinegar and salt.  Baking soda for clean up @$15
12. Gloves and safety equipment, @$4
13. Roughly, $70, JUST in materials.  But, that assumes tools, power, saw blades, sanders, saws and all the other pieces of equipment are not part of the price.  Wear and tear, fixing and the original cost of equipment is not included in this.  Labor is not included and the time outlays are ridiculous -- Probably 10-15 hours for epoxy and varnish alone.   There is an economy of scale here.  If you are making three, the time is more but not as much as doing three separate projects.  Glue-up, layout, clean-up, bandsaw, sanding, drilling, epoxy, varnish, fins and muriatic acid/rust wash follow the rule that it takes about the same amount of time to make three as one.
14. And, moving around all the equipment in the garage, turning it into a shop, and returning it to a garage.  That is not so much fun.
15. If I were to run across one of these at a craft fair and saw $120, I would  have said that is high.  Now that I have made some, that is barely covering costs. 

Here is a list of the power tools used. Hand tools like clamps, hammers, nail sets, tape measures, levels, pencils... NOT included:

1. Cutoff saw for the rough length of wood. 
2.  Table saw for ripping or using the dado blade for the wooden base used to epoxy/varnish and a bench top installation
3.  planer for milling one face  of the material for glue up
4. Band saw for the rough shape cut out
5. Sanding center, 12" disc, 6 inch belt, rough sanding
6. Finish sanding, ROS with 60, 80, and  120 grit paper, lots of that
7. Standing drill press, forstner bits
8. cutting tools for EMT, files, hack saw, Sawzall for cutting rebar
9. Aviation tin snips,  Gotta have em.  
10. Power tin snips. Sure make cutting sheet metal easier
11. Reciprocating multi-tool with new blade for cutting slots in the fish for fins
12. Grinder for sharpening